Tuesday, 18 February 2014

Arnhem Land -Gove (12 degrees south of the equator)


Safely arrived in Gove in Arnhem Land in the Northern Territories of Australia - this is a designated area owned by the Aboriginal people of Australia.

(It is more humid than Cairns  was - but folks say this is much cooler than it was!)

The area called 'Arnhem Land' has just 16,000 people living in an area which is equivalent to the size of Scotland and Wales!
 
There are 16 languages and very little infrastructure as we would expect to find.

 
 
This is an area with an interesting history - described in outline as follows: 

Traditionally the local people were believed to be nomadic. White man arrived (c. 150 yrs ago ) and decided to cattle farm. Unfortunately they are reported to have shot many Aboriginal people. Fear and poor relationships naturally followed !

During the 1920s and 1930s missionaries (in a fairly coordinated manner) 'divided' the country - Further south-east from here - Anglican territory; mid -Methodist which became known as the "Uniting church"; again Anglican further west ; Catholic far west toward Darwin area.

To provide protection from the 'cattle men' people moved into groups in what became mission stations or communities. The missionaries provided education and developed healthcare etc.

Dean has lived here for 15 years. 'They did a reasonable job at this' he says, and there are people around able to read and write today due to these schooling programmes.

The missions rather looked after people, but the 'Superintendent' of the mission stations took charge somewhat and occasionally were poor role models for empowerment and development (being strongly 'in charge').

 

A missionary at Elcho Island decided that getting around by air would help the vast distances ( without roads) So he bought a kit aircraft from the US and visited the various communities..

In time he 'traded up', got some Cessna 206 aircraft as he found the demand for flying increased. As he felt he was getting older he commenced discussions with MAF (known to him from the work in PNG) to take over his flying ministry.

 

Mining had started up in Gove - and it was seen as logical to put main base in Gove rather than Elcho Island The mining is of bauxite (which is for manufacture of aluminium). This is the reason for the very red coloured earth here.
 
 

 It may look nice - but you wouldn't swim due to 'salties'

 

In the mid 1970s the Australian Government established a policy of 'self determination' and so 'gave back' Arnhem Land to the Aboriginal people and said to the missionaries that Government would take over healthcare and education. The Missions tended to leave - seeing almost being expelled. But Govt didn't expect to take over flying work... so MAF stayed but there was little else Christian mission work.

(Last year MAF recognised 40 years of service in this remote region.)

 
People movement followed as a 'Homeland movement' developed when people decided they can live where they wanted to - no longer in mission station communities but new homeland communities popped up and the demand for moving around grew further. And the need to survive in their new homelands grew and grew...

During the wet season it is pretty much swamp and so fairly impassable along the few dust roads and crossing high rivers without bridges hinders movement of people, food and provisions.

 Beyond the town there is not much for a very long way ..!

 
I think we Europeans don't really have a concept of the vast size of Australia and the lack of population density and the vast distances with little else than 'bush'.

Today in what is called 'Arnhem Land' (within the Northern territories of Australia ) there are around 16,000 Yungal people living in an area we would be used to many millions.

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